Here at UWM Men's Shop we want you to know what goes into the construction of our Suit Jackets and Sportcoats, and what sets us apart from the rest. Today, are a few ways in which jackets are constructed:
Canvassed Jackets
Traditionally, men’s suits were constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas underneath the wool shell. The canvas helps to hold the shape of the suit and keeps it from sagging or deforming, similar to how the foundation of a house keeps it upright. The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape, the wool is then stitched to the canvas. As you wear the jacket, the canvas will begin to conform to the shape of the wearers body, creating an excellent fit.The canvas lining allows the suit to drape naturally, presenting a well put-together clean look.
Fused Jackets
Many suit manufacturers no longer use a canvas lining in their jackets. Instead they’re using a fused lining which is glued to the wool shell of the suit. Often this creates an unnatural stiffness in the jacket, making it appear lifeless compared to a canvassed coat, also, with a fused jacket overtime the glue will breakdown. The wool detaches from the fused backing causing it to ripple we call this “dimpling”. Once this happens there is no way to fix your jacket.
Half-Canvassed Jackets
Half-canvassed jackets have the canvas layer running only through the chest and lapels of the coat. The benefit to this, there will be a lower price than a fully canvassed jacket. The top half of the jacket is canvassed you won’t run into the issues you may with a fused jacket. This will extend the life of the jacket.
How to tell the difference?
The pinch test is a great way to determine whether a jacket is canvassed or fused.
First, pinch the cloth below the bottom buttonhole from the inside and outside of the jacket. Gently pull the layers apart. If you feel a third layer, then the coat is fully canvassed. If you don’t feel a third layer the jacket is more than likely fused.
We prefer canvassed jackets for three reasons:
1. Canvassed jackets look better.
2. Canvassed construction tends to have better styles and cuts.
3. Canvassed jackets last longer.
4. All jackets at UWM are full or half canvassed
To learn more, please swing by our store and we can show you in person how canvas constructed suits will change the way you look at your wardrobe!