When searching for shoes you have likely found that there is quite a drastic range in pricing. You have probably asked the question, what’s the difference between a pair of shoes that cost $100 and shoes that are $1,000? Features like quality of leather, brand name and where they are made are all factors. The biggest reason is the type of construction. When referring to construction, how the sole is attached to the upper of the shoe. To help explain, here is a breakdown of a shoe:

The Upper: The leather or canvas that is seen above the sole when a shoe is worn. Pretty much it is everything that covers the foot when you are wearing the shoe.

The Insole: The material on the inside of the shoe that your foot touches when wearing the shoe.

The Outsole: The material on the bottom and exterior of the sole, it’s what touches the ground when you are walking.

The Welt: On better-constructed shoes, the welt is a strip of leather which runs along the perimeter of the outsole. Its primary function is for attaching the upper to the outsole.

The Last: The last is what gives a shoe its shape. Lasts are used for both design and construction.

Higher quality dress shoes and boots are commonly constructed in one of two ways. These two methods are known as Goodyear welt and Blake stitching.

Goodyear Welt: Shoemakers take a strip of leather and sew that leather to the upper of the shoe. The sole is then sewed to the same strip of leather. The two-level stitching makes it incredibly easy to resole a goodyear welted shoe. Because the welt acts as a buffer between the insole and the outsole, removing the old sole and attaching a new one can be done by machine or by hand and without a specific machine. A goodyear welted shoe tends to be more water resistant as a result of the stitches being separated by a leather barrier. Shoes that are goodyear welted generally are more durable, tend to last longer and are comfortable.

Blake Stitch: On a Blake stitched shoe, the upper is sewn directly to the sole from the inside of the shoe. Although not as water resistant, a Blake stitch offers more flexibility to the shoe itself. Because it is a simpler construction than a goodyear welt, it tends to be less expensive. A Blake stitched constructed shoe allows it to be resoled once the outsole is worn out or damaged. Blake welting is also ideal when looking for a close-cut sole. Because there are no exterior stitches, the body of the outsole can be cut extremely close to the upper.

These two methods of shoe construction are just a few of many. The only way to know what you prefer is by trying them out. Lucky for you, UWM Men’s Shop and Tom Nox Men’s Shop has examples of both for you to try for yourself. Stop by today!